---
title: "A Quick & Dirty Guide to Italy's Alta Via 1"
url: https://stacklist.com/card/0dd22f8e-29db-49ad-8183-4204a80a77c7
source_url: "https://www.thehikinglife.com/2020/01/a-quick-dirty-guide-to-italys-alta-via-1/"
stack: https://stacklist.com/c/travel/stack/9daaccef-e1b9-4476-865c-beb6a85ca925
summary: "The Alta Via 1 is a 120 km, 11-stage hiking trail through Italy's Dolomites, running from Lago di Braies to La Pissa in the Val Cordevole, typically completed in 8 to 10 days. This guide covers logistics, seasonal timing, maps, guidebooks, GPS data, and planning information primarily aimed at independent hikers."
tags: "alta-via-1, dolomites, hiking, trekking, italy, long-distance-trail, mountain-huts"
key_entities: "Dolomites (location), Alta Via 1 (location), Lago di Braies (location), La Pissa (location), Val Cordevole (location), Belluno (location), Rifugio Lagazuoi (location), Gillian Price (person), Cicerone Guides (organization), Tabacco (organization), Kompass (organization), Alta Via 2 (concept), Italy (location)"
classification: "reference"
content_hash: "sha256:99a4c502dd4091c08db48d533019c163283e03b084f558726754f25c8c5abb24"
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status: "final"
---

# A Quick & Dirty Guide to Italy's Alta Via 1

Located in northeastern Italy, the Dolomites are one of Europe’s most dramatic mountain ranges. A combination of serrated limestone peaks, sheer cliffs, shimmering alpine lakes and deep, narrow valleys, they have long been a magnet for geologists, travellers and outdoor enthusiasts alike. From a hiker’s perspective, this legendary sub-range of the Alps boasts an extensive system of pathways (i.e. “Vias”), and of the many trails that crisscross its rugged topography, the most famous of them all is the Alta Via 1 (AV1). I hiked the AV1 along with the Alta Via 2 over 10 days in mid/late September, 2019. Click here for a full rundown of the latter hike. Please note that the information below is largely directed towards independent hikers, rather than folks going as part of organised trekking groups. Ascending towards the Forcella de Zita Sud on Stage 10 of the Alta Via 1. At a Glance Distance (11 Stages) : 120 km (75 mi) Duration (average): 8 to 10 days Difficulty Level : Moderate Start / Finish : Lago di Braies La Pissa Bus Stop (Val Cordevole) Lago di Braies – Northern terminus of the Alta Via 1 Lago di Braies – the rowboat capital of the Dolomites. Which Direction? : I don’t think it makes much of a difference, though the majority of people seem to hike north to south; which is the way the route is described in the Cicerone guidebook listed below. Elevation Gain : 6,665 m (21,833ft) approx. Highest Point : Rifugio Lagazuoi – 2,752m (9,029ft) Lowest Point : La Pissa – 448m (1,470ft) Alta Via 1 Overview Map ( Trekking in the Dolomites , Cicerone Guides) Getting There & Away Lago di Braeis is serviced by regular Dolomiti buses to and from the villages of Villabassa and Dobbiaco. They leave hourly during the summer months and take between 20 to 30 minutes to reach the lake. See the Dolomiti website for the current schedule. Both Villabassa and Dobbiaco are accessible by train. La Pissa Bus Stop (Val Cordevole) is 20 minutes from the town of Belluno. For current timetables see the Dolomiti website. Note that timetables are also displayed in the last couple of refuges on the trail. From Belluno, onward bus and train services are available. Southern terminus of the Alta Via 1 in the Val Cordevole. Season Mid-June to late September. In an average weather year, September is ideal. The school holiday crowds are gone, the summer thunderstorms (generally short) have subsided, temperatures are cooler, and the mountain huts are less crowded ( Tip : During July and August storms most often occur during the afternoon. If possible, try to make early starts and get the lion’s share of your hiking done in the morning hours). Depending on the snow levels and experience of the aspirant, the AV1 can also be done in the late spring or early to mid fall. When hiking at these times, you may require an ice axe and traction devices. Also note that most, if not all of the huts will be closed, so you will need to carry all of your own food and a tent/tarp. Yours truly approaching the Forcella del Lago (2,486 m) on Stage 3 of the Alta Via 1. Planning Information Guidebook : Gillian Price, Trekking in the Dolomites (Cicerone Guides) | Kindle version available | The book includes logistical beta, trekking notes, elevation profiles, basic maps (not detailed enough for navigation), town information, and time and distance estimates for each of the AV1’s 11 stages. Maps : 1. Tabacco produces the most detailed hiking maps for the Dolomites. Three 1:25,000 topo maps cover the entire AV1 (i.e. Sheets – 031, 03 and 025, ). Also available online from Amazon and Omnimap.com . Note that it is possible to pick them up once you arrive, but there are no guarantees all three sheets will be available; 2. Alternatively, Kompass produces a 1:50,000 ‘Wanderkarte’ series that covers the route (3 maps total – Sheets 57,55 and 77). GPS Data : Alta Via Dolomiti 1 (Traildino.com), Altavia delle Dolomiti 1 (Wandermap.net) Stage 5 between Rifugio Nuvolau to Rifugio Citta di Fiume passes through a gorgeous high altitude pasture which was once the domain of Mesolithic hunters. Permits : No permits are required to hike the AV1. Language : German and Italian. A basic knowledge of either definitely comes in handy, however, almost all of the locals you’ll encounter along the route know at least a little English. Cell/Mobile Phone Coverage : I tend to keep my phone in flight mode 99% of the time while I hike, but from what I can tell service in the Dolomites is spotty once you leave the villages/towns. That said, on the AV1 most of the huts now offer Wifi for guests, and it is usually possible to charge your phone and/or battery pack whether you are overnighting, or just stopping in for breakfast or lunch. Skirting below the Cime de la Scala on the final stage of the AV1. Cash or Card : Many of the huts (though not all) along the AV1 accept credit cards. Be sure to bring enough cash just in case you are staying in one or two that don’t. AV1 Planning Summary : I’d recommend the following course: 1. Read through this article; 2. Purchase the informative Cicerone guide; 3. Download a GPX file (see above) to your phone (I use the Gaia GPS app ), and; 4. Pick up the Tabacco maps. Resupply & Water Resupply : You won’t go hungry on the AV1. Procuring food along the way is simple if you are hiking during the summer season. Simply eat your main meals at the regularly-spaced Rifugi (mountain huts), at which you can also purchase snacks and sandwiches to go. Note that if you are interested in hiking out of season, you either have to carry all your own food from start to finish, or undertake some detours off-route along the way. Refugio Biella at the end of Stage 1. Water : Unlike in many other parts of the Alps, H20 is relatively scarce in the upper regions of the Dolomites. According to Gillian Price in the Cicerone Guide, this is due to the “ dolomite-limestone rock (most surface water disappears underground) as well as the dearth of glaciers and permanent snow fields .” In practical terms, this means that hikers should always be aware of where their next chance to fill up will be before setting out on each stage. Note that bottled water is always available for purchase in the huts – generally at very expensive prices (e.g. €3 for a 1.5 lt bottle – September, 2019). Route / Conditions Overview : Although quite demanding in sections – there is a total of 6665 m (21,833 ft) elevation gain throughout its course – the AV1 is well marked and maintained, and within the capabilities of most hikers. An excellent multi-day option for first-time alpine hikers. Unlike the region’s famous Via Ferratas (i.e. “Iron Roads” – protected climbing paths with cables, ladders and iron rungs that are attached to rock walls), the AV1 doesn’t include any technical sections that require specialized gear. That being said, for those wishing to experience the famed iron roads, it does pass by some of these spectacular alternates; notably the Ferrata Marmol on Stage 11. History: The Via Ferrata are much more than an exhilarating way to experience the Dolomites breathtaking landscapes. They also represent a visual reminder of the area’s bloody history. During WW1, the Dolomites were the scene of fierce battles between the Italian and Austro Hungarian forces. The Via Ferrata were installed during these years as a means of enabling troops quicker access to the front line. The Alta Via 1 also weaves through fascinating open air war museums at Mount Lagazuoi (the Alta Via 1’s highest point) and Cinque Torri (Five Towers). At these scenic locations, hikers can witness first hand the extensive system of tunnels and trenches that were built between 1915 and 1917. The juxtaposition between somber history and spectacular natural beauty is striking. The beginning of the Stage 4 alternate via the steep tunnel (see below for details) just below Rifugio Lagazuoi During World War 1 troops on both sides excavated a system of tunnels around the Piccolo Lagazuoi for the purpose of laying explosives to mine enemy positions. The most notable of these tunnels is the Galleria Lagazuoi, which descends for 1100 m at a 45° gradient for a total elevation drop of 230 m (Note: Don’t forget your headlamp). Navigation : The trail is well marked from start to finish. The route is marked with red and whites paint splashes and cairns. How Long will it take? : In the opening “At a Glance” section I mention that the average AV1 hiker will take between 8 and 10 days. That said, the amount of time it takes to finish the AV1 can vary greatly depending on a number of factors. Fit and experienced hikers carrying a light pack, can comfortably do the AV1 in four or five days. Favourite Sections : My favourite stages on the AV1 were as follows: Stage 4 Variant – Rifugio Lagazuoi to Rifugio Nuvolau . Unless you have severe claustrophobia or dodgy knees, be sure to take the variant via the wartime tunnels down to Passo Falzarego. Stage 5 – Rifugio Nuvolau to Rifugio Citta di Fiume – High altitude pasture with stunning rock formations. Stage 10 – Rifugio Pramperet to Rifugio Pian de Fontana . Arguably the best views of the whole trail on either side of the Forcella de Zita Sud. Approaching the Forcella de Zita Sud (2,395 m / 7,858 ft) Sleeping Options on the AV1 include staffed mountain huts and wild camping: Mountain Huts : The majority of backpackers in the Dolomites stay in the rifugi (mountain huts). These staffed refuges can be found throughout the range, and often boast incredible high altitude locations, along with spectacular vistas. Most are open from mid-June to late September, and along with overnight accommodation (dormitory and sometimes private rooms), they also offer breakfast, lunch and dinner. The best value can usually be found in the half-board offer ( mezza pensione ), which consists of a three course dinner, a bed, and breakfast. As of 2019, half-board costs around 45 to 55 Euros. Note that members of the Club Alpino Italiano usually pay around 20% less than non-members, and folks that are affiliated with certain other European Alpine or Mountain clubs (e.g. UK, Austria, German, French), enjoy reciprocal rights. During the peak season months of July and August, accommodation should ideally be booked in advance (especially if you are hiking in a group). The beautifully situated Rifugio Pramperet marks the end of Stage 9. Wild Camping : Regular readers of ‘The Hiking Life’ knew this bit was coming. While I enjoyed eating breakfasts and lunches in the huts during my time on the AV1, I avoided overnight stays in the huts. The main reasons for this is were that: A. I don’t sleep well in dormitories, and; B. If I’m hiking in the mountains I prefer to sleep outside whenever possible. That being the case, I did what I almost always do – set up camp at sunset and left the following morning before sunrise. Is Wild Camping Legal in the Dolomites? : Officially speaking, “ camping” – which is apparently defined in Italy as staying in the same tent site for more than 48 hours – is strictly prohibited. On the other hand, the “ overnight bivouac” – setting up late and leaving early the following morning is allowed (or at least tolerated) as long as you practice LNT principles. See the following article on the hikedolomites.com website for a more detailed breakdown. Practically speaking, I found wild camping in the Dolomites to be similar to other Alpine regions I have hiked through over the years – that is, as long as you set up late in a stealthy spot, leave at dawn the next day, and practice LNT principles at all times, there are no issues. During my trip I met a handful of other campers who like myself encountered no problems following this strategy. Drinking in the alpenglow from a wild camp on the Alta Via 1. Final Thoughts on the AV1 1. Alta Via 1 Vs Alta Via 2 – I hiked these two beautiful trails back-to-back over 10 days in mid/late September, 2019. I was very fortunate with the weather, encountering only one day of rain during both hikes. A few points to note: The Alta Via 1 is easier and more frequently trafficked than the AV2, being particularly popular with organised trekking groups. Something to keep in mind if you are making hut reservations in advance. Unlike the Alta Via 2, there are no Via Ferrata sections on the standard AV1. This fact, along with is generally gentler elevation profile and easier terrain, makes it the option of choice for folks that are relatively new to multi-day hiking trips. Which is more scenically impressive – the AV1 or AV2?: That’s a tough one. It is very close, but if I had to choose I’d probably go with the AV2. On the other hand, I’d give the AV1 the advantage on the history front, and probably a slight edge in regards to culinary options as well. I never actually weighed myself, but I suspect I may have put on a kilo or two during my time in the Dolomites (lunch at Rifugio Coldai). 2. Enrosadira – The rock pinnacles and spires of the Dolomites are particularly spectacular at sunrise and sunset, as the pale dolostone peaks light up with a salmon-coloured glow. The Italians refer to this phenomena as “ enrosadira ” (alpenglow). 3. Base for the Dolomites : During my time in the Dolomite region, I based myself in the town of Brunico (Bolzano), which not only provided easy access to both the AV1 and AV2, but also to the third multi-day hike I did in the area, the Pfunderer Hohenweg (trip report still to come). 4. Carry a light pack – There are a number of reasons to lighten your pack load, however the big ones are simply comfort, health and enjoyment. It is better for both your body, which is less likely to incur stress-related injuries, and also your mind, which is likely to be less distracted than it would be under the burden of a heavy load (see the Gear and Ultralight dropdown menus for tips). Thanks to the regularly situated full-service huts on the AV1, hikers never have to carry more than a few snacks, and for those staying exclusively in huts, your pack will be even lighter still as there is no need to pack a shelter or even a sleeping bag/quilt. For a rundown of the gear I carried on the AV1, see the accompanying post: Gear List: Alta Via 1 and 2 (Dolomites, Italy) . 5. Timing Your Days : As is the case pretty much all over the Alps, most of the hikers you will encounter seem to begin their hiking day around 8 – 9 am, and finish sometime between 2 and 4 pm, when they arrive at their pre-reserved hut. This means that the trails are often hiker-free during what I consider to be the best times of the day (i.e. early morning and late afternoon). From my perspective, herein lies the greatest benefit of carrying your own shelter – freedom. The freedom to arise at dawn when the birds are singing, and walk in solitude under an infinite ceiling of emerging blue. The same applies to sunset, when the temps are cooler, wildlife reemerging and the sky is turning fifty shades of crimson. These are the times when I most want to be out on the trail. Not necessarily to cover more miles, but instead because it makes me feel like I’m more a part of the daily miracle that is unfolding all around me. 6. My AV1 Strategy : FWIW, here’s a rough breakdown of my daily schedule during my 3.5 days on the AV1: Start my hiking day at dawn. Usually, I’d be camped 30 min to an hour from the next hut, which I’d aim at reaching by 730/8 am at the latest for a morning meal. Breakfasts – In general, brekky at the huts was a mixed bag. The good ones included a buffet of cereals, bread, cheeses, meats, multiple cups of coffee, and cost around €9 or €10. The not-so-great ones were of the continental variety consisting of bread, butter, jam, a coffee, and that’s about it. These cost €7 or €8 and I invariably left hungry………not really, as in these cases I’d buy something extra to go. Lunches – Upon leaving after breakfast I knew more or less how long it would take me to get to the next hut, where I would stop for a midday/mid-afternoon meal. As long as I got there by 2 to 230 pm, I always knew they’d still be serving. Lunches at the Rifugi were sometimes pricey, but always good, with hot meals setting you back anywhere between €10 and €16. I usually added a dessert and a couple of beers, after which I waddled out €20 to €30 lighter in pocket (but content of stomach). Dinner – I’d often leave my lunch stop with one or two sandwiches (and an overpriced chocolate bar) to tide me over for the rest of the day. Looking at my maps, I’d have in my mind the areas where I could most likely find a nice camping spot, at which point I’d generally arrive around sunset. The next day I’d wake up and do it all over again……….. Stage 10 – Final sunset of the AV1. Related Posts Gear List: Alta Via 1 and 2 (Dolomites, Italy) A Quick & Dirty Guide to the Alta Via 2 Disclosure : This post contains some affiliate links, which means ‘The Hiking Life’ receives a small commission if you purchase an item after clicking on one of the links. This comes at no additional cost to the reader and helps to support the website in its continuing goal to create quality content for backpackers and hikers.   Discover more from The Hiking Life Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email. Type your email… Subscribe